Tuesday, July 7, 2009

VALLEY OF GODS






day 5 : 23 dec ,2008
Today was the day we were going to reach the har ki dun .we started early around 7 am.crossed the bridge and took the slope up against the mountain facing us.about 20-25 minutes of vertical climbing we reached a ridge.it gave beautiful views of the river running to right of us.we had already gotten a taste of things of come.we then had a narrow path to traverse.the other way lead to osla village.on the way we stopped at the temple and accepted prasadh and continued our journey.then came a turn and a lonely house was in sight and our guide pointed to massive cliff ahead and said "thats where we were going".this time i felt i should make it somehow.probably i had gained confidence or because i had come so far there i knew there was no going back.whatever be it , we ploughed on and we steadily climbed the cliff.about 45 mins of climbing finally we came to a ridge.the views from the ridge was awesome.the deep valley and the river seemed so beautiful.we sat there enjoying the view for few minutes.then came the call of our porters "chalo chalo".we were driven like animals.they knew it was tough to make the last leg in winter and they were pushing us hard.again after another 50 minutes of climbing,we reached a level track.boy!did i feel happy.we rested a bit and moved along to find a camping settlement nearby.our guide had a chat with camp men as they were fellow guides and i enquired how much do we have to go .the guys cooly said just another 4 kms .my mind quickly comtemplated how difficult it would be if the 4 kms was the like terrain we covered.my head spun.i just sat there for few minutes enjoying the scene and when i got up i was ready.the way then, luckily was a terrain that went up and down .i quickly covered the down part and struggled with up part.soon we both the sides of track was covered with ice and thickness grew.it had happenned so quickly i hardly took a notice.i was walking through track in middle of sheet of ice.after considerable distance there came a cluster of trees giving looks of thick vegetation.it was amazing to walk through the trees.i wished i had lived there.it was like a dream land.And when we emerged from thicket the ice under our feet had gained in thickness.now it was ankle deep.slowy we covered ground.on way we met campers from settlement returning from har ki dun.the news was in the last leg , ice was knee deep.we ploughed on.After emerging from the mound earth i was finally able to see the har ki dun guest house.now rest of path had no track and ice was knee deep. i had no energy and provisions had gone before with the porters.then we realized the mighty mistake we had done.we had kept the gaiters in main bag and sent it along with porters.now there was no clear track and every step went into knee depth snow.walking had become a herculian task.my feet felt the chillness and shoe froze.i needed rest but could'nt stop for the risk of having snow bite.still it was a good 200m meter walk.neither could i shout nor would it be useful.slowly i walked towards the hut .I felt numbness in my feet and to make things worse i tripped and fell on my face .luckily i did'nt fall into the riverside .now my hands were full of snow and i started shivering .i just stood there for a moment i could see no porter coming back for me.all my mates had reached the house.i was the last.various thoughts rushed into my mind.for the first time i thought about my family .the harrowing thought of frozen to death shivered my bones.i took a deep breath and started walking agin.step by step i was close.i could sense the feeling of achieving something.the situation worsened my leg was completely numb now.i felt like my legs had become stone.i was going step by step with small targets in mind.my next target was a turn.i was on cloud 9 when i got to the turn.i could see the guest house clearly but happiness died soon as the path was not straight but winding.more distance.i felt a pang in my stomach. the guest house was 50 mts away.i yelled out.,no response.all were probably before fire or deep in blankets.with no response i continued my journey.as came closer ,my heart beat rose .i knew i was going to make it.the purpose of traveling all way from chennai , the himalayas will be conquered.childish for 3600 odd peak.but the sense of achievement in my mind pushed me till the door of guesthouse.i let out another yell "what the hell are you guys doing." my friends rushed and finally i had made it to the har ki dun.............TRULY THE VALLEY OF GODS .



TIPS:
dont forget to keep gaiters,ice axe in bag you carry on final day.drink as much water as possible.

GENERAL TIP:
dont engage any agency for har ki dun trek.in any season you can show up in sankri get a guide ,get rooms booked in sankri,taluka,seema,har ki dun.except har ki dun where guest house is like 20 bedder others have quite a big capacity (may be 30).you can get kerosene and stove in sankri.utensils the porters cum cook willl take care.bring toilet roll if you come in winter.you can get eggs in sankri.buy them.proivisions stores are avilable in sankri,taluka and osla.

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